How to convert an electric scooter to a solar scooter
How to convert an electric scooter to a solar scooter
Image Gallery ( 14 images )Wide piano hinges are used between each ot the solar panels with #8 self drilling screws. Be careful drilling on the panels so you don’t damage the EVA plastic coatings. Mount the hinges so the panels fold inward, protecting the face from road hazards like flying stones. The left and right inboard panels are reinforced with a criss-cross of aluminium stock to handle the stress and weight of the outer panel. The frame of both panels are also main structural members, so extra strength is worth the minimum additional weight of the aluminium.
A piece of angle stock is attached to the top of the solar panels for added strength. Have a partner hold the panels, hinges attached, to the angle aluminium stock. Mark 2 of the holes with a marker and remove the hinges for a moment. Drill these two holes with self drilling screws until through the metal and turning cleanly. Remove these two screws and have your partner align the hinge from the panels and then tighten the first two screws. If you are happy with the alignment, drill the rest of the screws into the pre-drilled openings on the piano hinge and seat firmly.
With the panels properly mounted, the next step is to make the crossover/locking mechanism to lock and support the panels in both driving and charging positions. This piece needs to be both strong as well as easy to use. The purpose of the crossover is to create a triangle joint between both sets of panels to keep them from moving while driving down the road.
When moved into charging position, these same pieces hold the panels open, folded toward the sun. Part of the design criteria required the ability to withstand moderate wind loading while parked outside in the weather. Aluminium stock is used for this purpose. A simple lock of aluminium stock and two rope hooks lock the panels while parked. This simple mechanism keeps the outer panels from folding closed on windy days. A round, hollow aluminium rod is used to simply slide over the flat stock, locking the assembly into the charging position. This has done well in gusty wind conditions between 20 and 30 miles an hour with no problems.
Wiring is next. On the right side of the bike are main connectors that can be pulled apart, disconnecting power from the batteries to the controller. Similar connectors are on each battery. Be sure to pull the power connectors apart before working on the main battery leads.
Two 3/8 inch holes are drilled in the back cover with the EVT logo. This is located just behind the drivers seat. The main 48 volt wire loops from the battery to the charge controller, just in front of the brake light assembly and under this cover. The insulation is bared and electrical splicing joints are used to make a strong mechanical connection. These will be the two leads from the C-40 charge controller and are fed through the holes in the back cap. Two matching holes are drilled in the bottom of the trunk to allow the wire to be fed to the charge controller, which will be mounted in the trunk for protection.
Mount the charge controller inside the trunk. I chose near the hinge, front of the trunk, mounted sideways with cooling fins on the left side. This allows the rest of the trunk to be used for storage. Feed the wires inside the trunk and choose an appropriate knock out on the C-40 controller. I chose the bottom knockouts (now located on right side of trunk).
Attach the negative lead to the battery ground post of the C-40. Attach a fuse assembly to the battery positive post, with the opposite lead of the fuse assembly attached to the main positive lead from the battery. I used fuse 30 amp, all weather fuse holders available from Radio Shack.
